Knockoffs have stormed the fashion scene, causing a stir across social media and online marketplaces like an uninvited guest at a high-society gala. These sneaky style chameleons give you the luxury look without the luxury price tag, sparking endless debates on whether they’re fashion-forward genius or outright fraud. But what are they? Are they the same as counterfeits and dupes? (Spoiler alert – they are not!) Let’s unravel the mystery.
Counterfeits: The Bold Imposters
A counterfeit is an exact copy of a branded product, created to deceive customers into thinking they’re buying the real thing. These replicas include everything — logos, packaging and even tags — to make them look identical to the original. They are designed specifically to trick consumers and profit from brand recognition.
Example: A fake pair of Nike shoes that feature the swoosh logo, branded box and labels, but are made with low-quality materials.
Legal Issues: Counterfeits are completely illegal because they infringe on trademarks and copyrights. Selling or purchasing counterfeit goods can result in heavy fines and even criminal charges in some countries. Also, counterfeiting operations are often linked to organized crime.
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- In 2018, 22 individuals, including importers, distributors and domestic shippers, were charged by U.S. federal authorities with smuggling millions of dollars’ worth of counterfeit luxury goods from China into the United States.
Dupes: The Affordable Alternatives
A dupe (short for duplicate) is a product that draws inspiration from a well-known brand but is marketed under its own identity. Dupes offer similar styles, functions or colors without attempting to deceive customers into thinking they are purchasing the original.
Example: A drugstore brand lipstick with a similar shade and formula to an expensive designer lipstick, but sold under a different name and packaging.
Are Dupes Legal? Yes! Dupes do not violate intellectual property laws as long as they don’t copy brand logos, packaging or unique, legally protected features. They are created as budget-friendly alternatives that deliver a similar experience without copying the brand’s identity.
Knockoffs: The Crafty Mimics
A knockoff is different from a counterfeit because it doesn’t include the brand’s logo or name but still closely mimics the design and style. Knockoffs aim to give the same aesthetic appeal as high-end products without directly copying brand trademarks.
Example: A handbag with a shape and pattern similar to a Chanel Flap Bag but without the Chanel logo.
Legal Status: Knockoffs exist in a gray area of the law. Some are legally acceptable if they don’t mislead consumers or violate specific intellectual property protections, while others can be challenged under trade dress laws, which protect the overall look and feel of a product, including its shape, color scheme, packaging and design elements, if they create confusion in the market. Since intellectual property laws vary by country, some knockoffs might be legal in one place but illegal in another. Brands often struggle to take down knockoffs because the lack of branding makes them difficult to classify as outright infringement.
But Who Would Buy a Knockoff?!
Shockingly, some fashionistas actively seek them out, treating knockoffs like the rebellious younger sibling of high fashion. That’s mostly because they want to “get on trend” without paying the price, but some might even see it as a way of opposing big brands due to concerns over labor practices, exclusivity or corporate ethics — essentially “sticking it to the man.”
Why Luxury Brands Dislike Knockoffs
High-end brands actively fight against knockoffs because they pose serious risks to their business.
- They reduce exclusivity: Luxury brands survive and thrive on their ability to whisper, “You can’t sit with us,” to the masses. If too many people carry similar-looking items, the brand loses some of its prestige. For example, Hermès maintains its exclusivity by strictly controlling the production and distribution of its Birkin bags, requiring customers to build a purchase history before even being offered one. This strategy ensures that demand remains high while reinforcing the brand’s elite status.
- They take away potential customers: Some buyers who might have saved up for an authentic item instead purchase a knockoff at a lower price, reducing sales.
- They cause brand confusion: Knockoffs can mislead customers into thinking they are associated with the original brand, even if they don’t carry the official logo.
- They undermine craftsmanship: Many luxury products emphasize high-quality materials and skilled craftsmanship that knockoffs fail to replicate. For example, Louis Vuitton is known for its hand-stitched leather goods, crafted by artisans using time-honored techniques. Each bag undergoes rigorous quality control, ensuring durability and precision. Knockoffs, on the other hand, are using low-grade materials and machine-based assembly, sacrificing the fine details that define genuine luxury.
How Brands Fight Back
To protect their designs and reputations, luxury brands use different strategies to combat knockoffs:
- Legal action: Companies are taking legal steps to protect their designs and trademarks from unauthorized imitation.
- Chanel vs. Jonak (2023) – Chanel sued French shoe brand Jonak for allegedly copying its famous two-tone slingback shoes. Chanel argued that Jonak’s design closely mimicked the distinct style of its footwear, causing consumer confusion and diminishing its brand identity. The case underscored the legal complexities of protecting design elements without explicit trademark features.
- Birkenstock vs. Competitors in Germany – In January 2025, Birkenstock initiated legal proceedings against several competitors, including Tchibo, alleging that these companies produced sandals closely resembling Birkenstock’s iconic models. The German footwear manufacturer contends that these designs should be recognized as “works of applied art” and thus receive protection under copyright law. The case has escalated to Germany’s Federal Court of Justice following conflicting decisions in lower courts regarding the applicability of copyright protection to Birkenstock’s designs.
- The Famous Wirkin Case – In late 2024, a handbag dubbed the “Wirkin” gained significant attention on social media platforms, particularly TikTok. Priced around $78 and sold by third-party vendors on Walmart’s website, the Wirkin closely resembled Hermès’ iconic Birkin bag, which typically retails for tens of thousands of dollars. The affordable alternative sparked a viral trend, with many consumers expressing enthusiasm for its accessibility and design. However, the Wirkin also faced criticism for imitating a luxury item, leading to debates about fashion ethics and intellectual property. Following the controversy, Walmart removed the listing from its website.
- Collaboration with marketplaces: Platforms work to remove listings of unauthorized imitation products.
- Technology integration: Some brands embed tracking technology, such as RFID chips or holograms, into their products to verify authenticity.
- Educating consumers: Brands invest in awareness campaigns to help consumers identify fake or imitation goods and understand why authentic products are superior.
Challenges in Stopping Knockoffs Online
Even with enforcement efforts, online marketplaces face major difficulties in eliminating knockoffs:
- Overwhelming volume: Online platforms deal with millions of listings, making it nearly impossible to manually review all potential knockoffs.
- Legal loopholes: Some countries have weaker intellectual property laws, allowing knockoff manufacturers to operate with minimal consequences.
- Consumer demand: Some shoppers actively seek out knockoffs, making enforcement efforts even harder.
- Knowledge gaps in identification: Luxury brands release multiple models and limited-edition collections, making it difficult for enforcement teams to keep up with new designs. This creates gaps in knowledge, allowing some knockoffs to slip through unnoticed.
Can Technology Help?
Online retailers use machine learning to scan product listings and detect possible knockoffs. However, these systems also face their struggles:
- Visual similarity challenges: Machine learning models can detect logos and branding more easily than identifying slight variations in design that mimic luxury items.
- False positives: Legitimate products can sometimes be mistakenly flagged as copies.
- Seller adaptability: Knockoff sellers quickly adjust their listings to avoid detection.
Oscar Wilde said: “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.” But when it comes to knockoffs, it’s less about admiration and more about monetization. The good news is, luxury brands and online marketplaces are ramping up their efforts to detect knockoffs, and those that have mastered AI and deep industry knowledge are leading the fight.
Anna Pogreb is a Senior Risk Strategist at EverC. With more than 15 years of experience in payments, compliance and technology, she is passionately dedicated to fighting fraud with integrity and intellect, as well as working to restore dignity to those impacted by it on a global scale. Prior to joining EverC, Pogreb held roles as a risk analyst, investigator and strategist at Payoneer, a leading global digital payments platform. She is a Certified Financial Crime Specialist (CFCS) and an active member of the Israeli Fraud Fighters community group.
