After May 2, ultra-fast fashion will be slightly more expensive. The human cost, however, remains astronomical.
For years, ultra-cheap, ultra-fast fashion has rewired where and how Americans shop. Led by Chinese-founded online retailers Shein and Temu, ultra-fast fashion has succeeded in part by driving prices for trendy clothes as low as possible.
Now that model is starting to fray. One way fast-fashion retailers have kept prices low is by taking advantage of a loophole in trade policy: Low-value shipments under $800 could enter the U.S. duty free. That exemption ends May 2.
As Americans worry about possible rising prices, we must also confront the deeper cost: Our reliance on cheap clothing is fueled by forced labor and worker exploitation abroad.
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While the U.S. is considering adding Shein and Temu to the Department of Homeland Security’s forced labor list, we need to address the entire business model. That requires a coordinated effort from policymakers, retailers and consumers to reject the exploitation at the heart of fast fashion and ensure no business can continue to operate with forced labor in its supply chain.
Here’s what we can do.
Fast Fashion Relies on Forced Labor — Driven by Greed and Vulnerability
Forced labor generates $236 billion in total annual illegal profits, and the fast fashion industry has become one of the biggest enablers. Fast fashion’s focus on microtrends and rapid production cycles drive outsourcing to developing countries, where workers face unsafe conditions, wage theft and excessive hours.
Garment workers, who produce more than $3 trillion worth of goods annually, are some of the lowest-paid workers in the world. Despite grueling 16-hour shifts chasing unrealistic production demands, less than 2% earn a living wage.
But they’re not the only victims. Over 100 million children are affected in garment and footwear supply chains, whether directly as workers, as the children of exploited laborers, or those living near factories where toxic chemicals pollute their communities. Child labor is most prevalent in the production of raw materials, like cotton. Half a million children face exposure to pesticides and chemicals, isolation and harsh environmental conditions while producing cotton seeds. Even Shein, despite its limited transparency, acknowledged instances of child labor in a 2024 report.
It’s important to note that child labor is a symptom of poverty. The most vulnerable children are at risk of exploitation — those out of school or denied an education who work to support their families or risk starvation. They often have no security or protection.
This exploitation persists largely because of gaps in transparency and failures to enforce labor laws in the global fashion industry. From harvesting to manufacturing, forced labor is pervasive. But subcontractors, complex supply chains, inadequate oversight and gaps in enforcement make it easy for brands to claim ignorance. Even when forced labor is identified, accountability is rare, and bad actors simply shift production elsewhere to avoid scrutiny.
What Governments and Organizations are Doing About Exploitation
Governments worldwide have begun taking steps to confront forced labor in supply chains. The U.S. has enacted the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA), which bans imports linked to forced labor, particularly from China’s Xinjiang region. Additionally, the U.S. Department of Homeland Security has blocked imports from specific Chinese companies suspected of using forced labor, which Shein and Temu could soon join.
The EU Forced Labour Regulation is set to prohibit the sale, import and export of goods made using forced labor starting in late 2027 and it requires increased supply chain transparency and due diligence from brands. Canada and Mexico have taken steps to prohibit the importation of goods produced with forced labor under the USMCA, making it one of the strongest trade agreements for labor rights.
In addition to government action, watchdog organizations take a variety of approaches to addressing the problem, from direct action to policy advocacy and education initiatives that raise consumer awareness of the issue.
While these efforts represent real progress, the problem is far from solved. We need policymakers to continue efforts to close trade loopholes, enforce stronger labor protections and promote worker rights. That includes addressing extreme poverty.
What Retailers and Consumers Can do Now
Governments can’t fix this alone. Retailers and consumers too must change their practices and habits to eradicate forced labor.
Retailers must first assume forced labor exists in their current system. This is especially likely in high-risk regions like Asia and the Pacific, and industries like cotton production.
From there, increased scrutiny and zero-tolerance policies go a long way:
- Require third-party certification from suppliers that they don’t use forced labor.
- Conduct in-person audits of factories, farms and fulfillment centers.
- Use tracking software to monitor raw materials and verify supplier practices.
Consumers too have a role to play. Every dollar they spend is a vote for or against exploitation. Those who no longer wish to support forced labor can:
- Reduce dependence on ultra-fast fashion. Look for ethical brands, including those that are Fair Trade Certified. Apps like Good On You and others that rate sustainability practices can help consumers make more conscious choices. Alternatively, buying clothing secondhand or renting can reduce demand for the low-cost, high-volume production model that drives labor exploitation.
- Demand accountability. Your voice matters in holding fast-fashion companies accountable for propping up their business model with unlivable wages and forced labor. Speak out against companies that operate under exploitative conditions and push for both retailers and policymakers to enforce stronger controls that close loopholes and protect workers.
The Real Cost of Fast Fashion
Closing one gap in the system won’t stop exploitation. Without broader accountability, companies will simply shift production and exploitation elsewhere. If some companies are forced to shutter, others will simply adopt the Shein and Temu model of ultra-cheap production, made possible only by exploitation.
As Americans stress over rising prices, exploited workers are the ones paying the true cost—often with their health, safety, and freedom. Without meaningful change, the cycle of exploitation will only deepen. It’s time to rethink whether cheap clothes are worth the human toll.
Kelsey Morgan is EverFree’s Co-founder and CEO. Over 15 years in the anti-trafficking sector, she has worked to build innovative programs, strengthen evaluation standards and collaborate in service of strengthening the movement. Morgan founded Willow International in 2010 and merged with 10 Thousand Windows in 2021 to create the global nonprofit, EverFree, which provides direct services and scales survivor-led solutions to accelerate the end of trafficking. As part of her PhD program at the University of California, Irvine, she led the creation of Freedom Lifemap to amplify survivor voices in case management and identify effective interventions.
